When I think of Tokyo, I think of a fast-paced city with many people who enjoy cutting edge technology and matcha green tea. Scenes from the Sophia Copolla movie Lost in Translation (starring Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson) also come to mind. Come to think of it, any movie with Scarlett Johansson seems to include themes from Tokyo, Japan. Fast, forward and future.
This was my first visit to the exquisite city, and my third to Japan. I had previously been to Osaka/Kyoto/Nara, and Fukuoka. It seems each visit impresses me even more and highlights something new. Osaka/Kyoto and Nara are known for their temples, gardens, and bamboo forests. Fukuoka was an amazing city with some of the best parks I’d ever seen, including Ohori Park in the Akasaka district. A visit to Tokyo was therefore inevitable, and even though it was a last-minute 4-day trip, I managed to catch a glimpse of the city from above and below. Tokyo’s subway system compliments its skyline and the tension of the heated crowds pushing through the windy subway was ameliorated by the bird-chirping sounds that echo through the train platforms. There were speakers with calming, natural sounds emanating from every major transportation hub. It was clear that Japan had the following things in mind when designing their city: efficiency, health, convenience, and cleanliness.
My trip started in Narita, and I had to navigate the bus and train systems from the Garden International Hotel in Narita to Tokyo for each of the 4 days. This was because the flight out of Japan was through Narita airport and I had way too much luggage to carry around. Having a hotel close to the point of departure gave me peace of mind and made up for the 1.5 to 2 hour train rides to and from Tokyo. In any other scenario, the best route to take is to book a hotel within the borders of Tokyo’s JR line. The JR line is the subway train that encircles Tokyo and provides easy access to and from major tourist destinations.
The first destination on our itinerary was Meiji Castle, a shrine built to commemorate the first emperor who led Japan from the Edo period into the Imperial era. Built posthumously, it is dedicated to Emperor Meiji and his consort, Empress Shoken. Easy access via the JR Yamanote Line and right at Harajuku station, it was an easy choice. After the shrine, we visited Harajuku and that way killed two birds with one stone. The Meiji shrine exemplifies Japanese architecture in all it’s glory with wide floor space and large entrances marked by large wooden tori gates.
After walking the grounds of the Shrine, I started walking towards Harajuku to experience the different styles walking the streets of the district. Walking through Takeshita Street is also an experience worth having, because of the numerous boutique shops and ice cream/candy parlors that are mixed in among the shops. There were several stops that had World Currency Exchange for those who like to get the most out of your money when traveling. The exchange rates at World Currency, Sakura and Smart Exchange Currency stations are often 400+ yen better in value than airports, ATM’s and banks.
After exploring the greater Shibuya and Shinjuku cities, the journey back to Narita station began. My Smartphone simplified navigating and helped me save time and avoid mistakes whenever boarding the Subway or train systems. From the Western side of Tokyo to Narita station takes approximately 2 hours, and with a food stop at Nihonbashi station, it was a quick 2 and a half hours before getting back to the hotel at 10:30 pm.
The next morning, we made our way to Ueno park to visit the graveyard of the Shogi-Tai soldiers who were some of the last Samurai to fight against the Meiji Emperor during the Ueno war around 1868. This was a battle between the Tokugawa fighters known as the Shogi Tai and the soldiers representing the new government of Meiji. Many such battles were waged during this transitory period, but thanks to the persuasion of one Okisato Ogawa and his comrades, the government granted permission to erect a monument honoring the men who fought with honor. Essentially, Ueno park has both this tomb of the Shogitai Warriors, Kaneji temple (which used to be one of the largest temples attended by family members of the Tokugawa clan), and a statue of Saigo Takamuri, one of the generals in the battle of Ueno. History aside, there are numerous museums and gardens surrounding the park that are all worthwhile. Ueno station is also one of larger train stations accompanied by many delicious restaurants and ice cream parlors.
For the last day, I decided to rely on a quick peruse through the interwebs and see what the majority was doing. Mori Digital Arts museum and Tsukiji Fish Market kept showing up, and they were within the same vicinity. Done.
The Digital Arts Museum was situated within an oceanfront shopping center and is within Palette Town. It’s situated within the tech and science industry and there are incredible views of the city, especially if you go up the Ferris wheel. The whole ambiance reminded me of the Santa Monica Pier in California, with the exception of there only being a Wendy’s whereas the pier in Santa Monica had many different food options. Arriving before noon (a suggestion I followed), the line was manageable, and people were entering the lab within 20 minutes. The museum itself is pitch black and serves as an expression of futuristic paintings using lighting displays that mimic the natural world. With over 20 different rooms, there’s a new visual display for each day of the week and some of the rooms such as the “LED strands” room, were on permanent display. The entire experience was nice, extremely kid-friendly, and fun for everybody. Japan is constantly pushing the envelope with future technology and this is especially true in the world of entertainment. Blending real-life motion with music and audience participation, the Mori Digital Arts Museum experience was a perfect representation of Japan in the year 2019.
If time permits, I would highly suggest going into the tea room and ordering a cup of tea to complete the visit with a stylish touch. The tea house blends art, and food with technology. Upon being served your beverage, a flowery, natural lighting display illuminated the tea liquid and expands around the table setting. It was new and interesting.
The teamLab and Mori group collaborated to deliver an ambitious electrical display in one setting. Previously shown in Singapore, Shenzen, London, and Paris, they now have a home in Tokyo for all local and international visitors. Its name borderless comes from the idea of traveling throughout the exhibit and partaking in the art-making experience. For example, putting your hand on a wall of falling bubbles will trigger a sensor to create a bubble display that falls around your hand. Wait another 30 seconds, and moss starts to grow around your hand. It’s quite imaginative, to say the least.
In a nutshell, the Borderless experience was an ever-changing network of responsive displays, hands-on exhibits and hidden rooms for adventurous tourists willing to go the extra mile to find them. The museum is two-fold: an aesthetically pleasing experience for the future; I would even say sci-fi. By the same token, visitors still receive an organic, multimodal sensory experience that motivates each individual to participate.
After visiting the fish market, and enjoying a delicious authentic meal, we headed back to Narita.
Japan will always hold a place in my heart. The culture and its people think about human experience at a very deep level. It’s evident in Japan’s infrastructure, music, advanced interactive movie and gaming experience, and hospitality in general. My hotel room in Narita had a jukebox/radio/alarm clock/bed-side table (for lack of a better term). It played calming jazz and classical music and also had over 50 tones to choose from when setting your alarm clock.
There is so much more to explore within Asia and I hope to one day see China, Singapore, and Indonesia. Japan is amazing. Even right up until I boarded my flight back to the US. Going through security, I gave a lady a compliment telling her she was pretty (transcribed: Kirei-des). Her response was something I’ll never forget. She fluttered her eyes and gave me (literally) a 5-second dance show with her head while smiling in the most courteous fashion imaginable. It was beautiful. I made her day and she pretty much-made mine. Equally beautiful was how they handled my guitar while going through security. You’d think they were handling a bag of gold. So respectful, and I couldn’t be more appreciative. Thank you, Japan. I shall return.
Ciao for now,
Nattapon Jontom Abbett
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